Once you’ve eliminated trench coats for inferior fabric, there are a few structural details to check.
The collar frames the face. Getting as close as possible to Burberry is my goal for classic trench coats. Flowy or avant garde trench coats have separate conventions.
I prefer having epaulettes, but they’re not as important as the shape of the collar.
The gun flap is a detail that a lot of designs get wrong. It’s rare to find a true fashion faux pas, but here we are. The gun flap’s purpose is to seal the lapel in place once it’s buttoned all the way up.
Therefore, the gun flap needs to be sewn on the side with the buttons. The side with the button holes is on top, then the gun flap covers the upper corner.
I don’t think this detail is widely understood. Maybe it’s not a deal breaker for everyone. Once you see it, you can’t unsee it.
The back mini cape is designed to move water away from the body. This design detail also adds to the polish of the backside. Trench coats are generally made of cotton, a fabric which often has the grace of crumpled paper. The mini cape gives the back the appearance of sleek structure.
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